Fat, old man rides a 9'3 lb, easily paddles on to small waves.
Friends daughter borrows lb, novice, catches many waves despite being not very strong and quite a new.
Young, fit, strong short boarder borrows lb ,can't catch any waves.
Kadi my son goes all right on a SB,others say he rips but I can't tell him that he is super fit and rides a LB like its his go to board, straight up on the nose first wave little sh1t
Your not old or fat btw.
False??
Can only go on my family and their friends. The ones that surf sub 6'2" banana white boards struggle, whereas my two surf mainly fish style boards, flatter rocker etc and can jump straight on to the mal and rip or cruise. Same for me, 6'4" twin fin and 9'4" single fin. (No ripping, just cruising)!
It's just a matter of experience.
As a Shortboarder I remember clearly my first surf on a Mal.
I'd take off, not move back enough and either bog the nose or try to turn from the middle and nothing would happen.
It took a few surfs to remember the feeling of the board I learnt to ride, a 7'0 pintail Strapper pin tail single fin.
Forward to trim, back to turn. It's just a matter of adapting to the equipment and the more you move between many different boards the easier it is to ride anything. You learn to surf by feel, constantly adjust to what is happening and ride it in the way you need to.
If you're still struggling it's the fun bit, learning to do new things is more fun than being good at them and repeating the process over and over.
I just started riding a longboard after riding a shortboard for 32 years & yeah took me a while to get used to turning especially off take-off. I'd lean over like I would a short board & just fall on my face. Would often happen on the first wave, coz ingrained memory was for riding a SB. But I think its a lot easier than going from LB to SB, I havn't put on weight but just paddling my 6'0 firewire feels like its waterlogged the way its submerged while you paddle it, its a really horrible feeling really. Might havta trade it in for a fish or hybrid fish so I still have something small & light to take overseas.
I found that to an extent I had to re-learn surfing again after years on a shorty when I took up long boarding. It was difficult to get used to the longboard glide - was to used to generating my own speed via turns on a shorty.
That said - once you have it down it is possible to ride both well I reckon.
I can't ride a short board but have seen lots of short boarders do a lot of paddling across the wave to find the sweet spot on the wave for takeoff and just drop onto the wave, long boarders seem to paddle harder in the same direction as the wave to catch it.
Not Really saying short boarders can't ride long boards, just noting some differences.
I recently got back onto the SB for the big swell that hit here. It was weird at first standing up on the shorter board, but was able to get in some massive hacks once up and going
Then went back to LB once the surf calmed down and I really struggled to 'surf delicately' to get up to the nose, also getting some good turns in. Could be due to the classic single fin nature of my LB. Might have better luck on a more progressive style LB.
So at least for me; LB to SB is much easier than SB to LB.
I agree it does, since I've had my new fish Ive hardly ridden the LB, don't even put it in the car anymore...
