A bloke I know spent most of the weekend trying to find a co-driver to drive up to NSW from Torquay with no luck...he was so despondent he had to take a
Mental health day and spent 6 hours surfing 3 foot rights yesterday...
That was rather inspiring Ted
Had a nice little session this arvo all thanks to a certain roomac, few fun little rights, some good noserides too
Dicko was the best I have seen in the 36 years I have surfed there.
There were over 60 surfers in a line between Pogos and the Cliff.
It was peaking up to over double head height, and they were taking off under the lip and just pulling in. Absolutely first class.
And way out of my league. :(
Fun little wave at the lane today. Tried to get into cooly but thought better of it once I saw the traffic. Looking back on it, I shouldn't have even tried.
was going to hit the alley but too crowded so went to billabong factory outlet and scored a new steamer with 70% voucher from 500 bucks roughly down to $119 Excel latest model, looks like swell will pick up tomorrow so should spread the crowd out a bit
Scored some inconsistent head Hugh mush burgers. They are fun on a big board. The shorie was a bitch thiugh
Saturday morning - Building swell grabbed a nice few hours at a super secret spot before
Saturday Arvo - Surfed super fun waist high peelers with most of Torquay still some super fun ones and good to see the next batch of super groms absolutly blowing up
Sunday morning - Swell kicked 4-6 foot 6 guys in the water plenty of lump and bump from the night before
Sunday arvo - Absolutly off the hook pumping 4-6 glassy waves about 12 guys in teh water just mind bendingly blue green walls standing up and peeling off
Monday Morning - Absolutly off the hook pumping 4-6 glassy waves about 15 guys in teh water just mind bendingly blue green walls standing up and peeling off
Monday Morning - Absolutly off the hook pumping 4-6 glassy waves about 12 guys in teh water just mind bendingly blue green walls standing up and peeling off
Its still going off but I'm literally too cooked from surfing...I've clocked 24hrs in 5 days...still kinda thinking I should get out there though
So it's been of the hook then? That's all that needed to be said - the Scotty version.
Fair to say I have huge envy right now !
Surfed Macs home today. I was not going to go as pup told me it was crap(pup is now in the he gives **** surf reports list) got a message from a reliable source who told there were fun waves to be had
I missed the best of it but got a heap.... Very hard to surf since I became a nose breather
Oh it gets better. He went with the prez and they both wrote it off as unsurfable (we need a roll on my back laughing emoticon )
So who knows...... Maybe their shakras were out
I saw two snapped boards, two snapped leggies, a guy with a nasty gash above his eye and another guy with a really deep gash to his foot that left lumps of congealed blood up the stairs. Me? I had a wave break about 15m in front of me, bailed the board, and still got slammed into the bottom. I went in and spent the next five minutes spewing on my hands and knees on the beach. It was pretty bloody good out there though. It's just that I wasn't.
It was a 2m swell.