Uluwatu - change on the cards

Another interesting article from Swellnet well worth a read. That first pic is similar to my first memories of the place as you strolled in from the road - I was too tight to even employ someone to take my board for me !



If you visited Uluwatu this past season chances are you would've noticed a change in the landscape behind the break. The change is most obvious as you follow the walking track down the valley toward the cave. On the opposite side of the valley the vegetation has been removed down to the roots exposing the dry soil and crumbling limestone. It's not all that was exposed in the clearing process; when they enquired about the devegetation, locals were told it was the first stage of a wholesale change to the Uluwatu valley. The cleared land was being sold with the proceeds used to demolish most of the existing warungs and rebuild them in a different style.The first warungs appeared at Uluwatu in the mid-70s shortly after Alby Falzon's film Morning of the Earthput the break on the surfing map. Relaxing in the warungs, eating and drinking between sessions became as much a part of the Uluwatu experience as climbing down the ladder into the cave or navigating a Racetrack barrel. As such surfers became endeared to the locally owned warungs and the custom they provide.Although there are now 45 warungs at Uluwatu, all of the land straddling the cliff top is owned by one family. The same family owns the land stretching up the river valley from the cave and out to the road where the aforementioned clearing had taken place. According to a local source who wished to remain anonymous, the cleared land, which measures 2.5Ha, is being considered by developers from Jakarta who plan to build 40 villas on it. When the sale is completed - and no-one could say for sure when that will be - then the warungs will be demolished.Whatever the time frame or outcome our source is adamant change will happen: "[the land owner] will eventually redevelop the warungs. That's his land and his wish."







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Upon hearing about the proposal, surfers have been nervous about what will happen. The ad hoc architecture of the warungs, huddled as they are to the limestone cliffs, forms part of Uluwatu's allure. As does the apparent absence of red tape; in the past if a warung owner wished to expand they simply built upwards or outwards regardless of planning laws. The laissez faire construction bemused Westerners, it's one of Indonesia's enjoyable idiosyncrasies, yet it has its limits.Another source that Swellnet spoke to, who also wished to remain anonymous, said the project had been motivated by the land owner's loss of control. "For example, one local builds a three story warung, rooms for rent, and a retail store. Another sublets to a Westerner who builds a couple hotel rooms. Other warungs are falling to pieces and about to collapse and still use asbestos roofs." Very rarely do the warung owners seek permission to build or renovate.During the redevelopment most of the warungs will be razed and rebuilt to a uniform code. Surviving the demolition will be Singlefin and Bluepoint, which are both situated beyond the land owners property. In their place will be modern two story warungs, plus the owner will also create zoning for a temple, the ding repair area will also be rebuilt with a better layout, as will the toilets. A 5 metre wide walkway will extend from the valley to the cave.The new warungs will be built along the along the back of the cliff starting from below Singlefin and stretching almost to the current toilets by the old steps. The new warungs will apparently conform to a building code, though it would appear to be a code enforced by the land owner and not the Balinese government. Government planning codes prevent any structures within 50 metres of the Bukit clifftops.Recent developments further down the Bukit Peninsula at Bingin and Dreamland have some in the community worried about the outcomes at Uluwatu.

However, Swellnet's source is quick to allay those fears. "There is no talk of any foreign developers coming in," they said. Also, existing warung owners will be justly compensated. "They will all be offered a new lease and new warung when the project is completed. The ones who will lose out are the ones who built giant structures seemingly without the correct approvals from the land owner."Tim Russo is an expat American surfer who's called Bali home for ten years. He's also the head of Project Clean Uluwatu (PCU). PCU has an overarching goal of protecting the entire ecosystem of Uluwatu - the cliff, cave, reef, ravine, and the water that flows through it all. PCU currently manage and pay for the daily collection and removal of solid waste at Uluwatu. They've also been instrumental in other preservation projects such as local composting systems, and a liquid waste treatment system that links black and grey water from every warung in the valley. Russo estimates PCU have treated over 1.7 Million litres of raw sewerage that would have otherwise found its way onto the reef.Although comprised mainly of Western expats, the PCU are concious of being branded as meddling bules. Russo says they listen without judging and afford the Balinese the highest level of respect. They also work very closely with the locals, the Uluwatu warung owners, and other influential stakeholders such as the Kepala Desa (village head). "We meet every few months to discuss what's going on, listen to their feedback, and address any concerns. They are very supportive of our efforts to clean up the area."When the new warungs are built they will integrate their plumbing into PCU's liquid waste treatment system. PCU have also reached out to the prospective buyers of the cleared valley on how their development needs to be sustainable and implement eco-friendly construction methods. According to Russo, the new development "needs to maintain the natural watershed and water flow so as not to change the dynamics of the river valley that created the cave and the world famous wave at Uluwatu."

Given there are about 140 people in the water now days at any one time plus their support staff and others that are out of the water at the time plus additional tourists just coming to look at the place - there must be over a thousand people there a day easily. I still love cursing down the stairs and past all the Warungs as everyone josts for yr business for the day. Then as you come up the stairs you get set upon by 10 blokes with pics of you whilst the ding repair guys are flat tack, Bintangs are being drunk and some nice food smells wet your appetite. Its an incredible little part of the world. Just a shame its so busy :) but still I can not wait to get back there. Still get your share there if you know what day to turn up

Will.be intresting to see how it all turns out. My optimistic side is not really being set on fire with it though.