The Slow Mo part of this vid is where I've misread the wave, something I did a lot of yesterday. I should have kicked off or gone for a floater. What I shouldn't have done is stepped forward to try & make the next section, got rolled with my board, hammered in the thigh by a rail, hammered some more in the whitewater & then come up directly into one of my surfboard fins.

My thigh swelled up while I was out there & I could see it through my wettie lol...I tryed to keep surfing but I couldn't put much weight on my front leg without it hurting, so I came in an hour later just as conditions were getting better. Spewing I'm missing out on nice conditions today too coz I can barely walk...oh well, gotta respect the all mighty huey & pay the price from time to time

The cold does a great job of masking pain. I kicked my old broken toe and kept surfing. After getting out of the water realised I've obviously broken it badly again and also struggling to walk

Nice waves you had there though..A few party waves also

Spewing I can not load this on the train !!!!

finally. Some nice looking fun waves there. Hope your injury heals - that swell looks good over yr way. Maybe turn yr head to check no one is on the inside before catching wave.

lol we often share waves here coz its so fat, if I'm on the inside of someone I often call them onto the wave unless I'm not confident in their ability. You can see I didn't effect that guys ride...still waiting for a good day, you'll see a lot more people on one wave then

That sux, JB. Might want to take it easy for a bit or it will be a recurring injury & not heal right.

Nice looking waves bro...sucks when you get injured!

Great work Mick!

Ohhhh Mick I hope you'll be mobile for tomoz. We only get one or two( if we're lucky) of these a year. Gonna be ALL time!!

^^^^
Just make sure you have plenty of time mick...with a 20 sec period should be super inconsistent.

thanks for sharing another WA session,ice up you'll be good to go any day!


Now was that little Puppy on the beach without his lease in blue

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Ctngoodvibes said...
^^^^
Just make sure you have plenty of time mick...with a 20 sec period should be super inconsistent.

Exactly - you will turn up see its 6-8ft and perfect and paddle out....10mins later some huge 15ft bombs will come through n scare the living **** out of ya

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MickPC said...
lol we often share waves here coz its so fat, if I'm on the inside of someone I often call them onto the wave unless I'm not confident in their ability. You can see I didn't effect that guys ride...still waiting for a good day, you'll see a lot more people on one wave then

That sux, JB. Might want to take it easy for a bit or it will be a recurring injury & not heal right.

Sadly i already made the problem worse. The injury is a few years old and has never heeled correctly as its the joint on the toe, so now it sits up higher and when ever it gets a nock, it gets real sore, sadly though i hit it harder than ever, but the cold masked it. They want it operated and pinned but i said after Hawaii.. Funny though it always seems worse in winter, not sure why
I even just received new booties, but wanted to ride the new board first with out them

What have you done to your leg Great fun waves and I love that camera setup, it is so cool to be able to get shots of yourself..
Do you now having had a bit of footage of yourself, feel you look, like you feel when you surf

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Tux said...
Nice looking waves bro...sucks when you get injured!

It does mate, especially when it puts you out of action when there's waves.

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Simondo said...
Great work Mick!

Cheers mate...just wish I got more dramatic footage of me being hammered lol

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smicko said...


Ohhhh Mick I hope you'll be mobile for tomoz. We only get one or two( if we're lucky) of these a year. Gonna be ALL time!!

I've just got back from having a few beers down the beach...dunno if it will be all time, but there were plenty of waves & very few people out...you've got me extra interested in what it will be like tomorrow, doubt I'll be able to surf though. I can't bend my knee without my thigh muscle sending me farking stop that signals.

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Ted the Kiwi said...

Ctngoodvibes said...
^^^^
Just make sure you have plenty of time mick...with a 20 sec period should be super inconsistent.

Exactly - you will turn up see its 6-8ft and perfect and paddle out....10mins later some huge 15ft bombs will come through n scare the living **** out of ya

haha well that would be awesome to see at least. I'll take the camera down & get some manual footage if it does pick up big time overnight

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Macaha said...
thanks for sharing another WA session,ice up you'll be good to go any day!


Now was that little Puppy on the beach without his lease in blue

NP mate, cheers...certainly is mate, farking top bloke. He saw me limping up the beach & came down to ask me wtf I'd done to myself & offered to go & grab my gear on the beach.

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jbshack said...
Sadly i already made the problem worse. The injury is a few years old and has never heeled correctly as its the joint on the toe, so now it sits up higher and when ever it gets a nock, it gets real sore, sadly though i hit it harder than ever, but the cold masked it. They want it operated and pinned but i said after Hawaii.. Funny though it always seems worse in winter, not sure why
I even just received new booties, but wanted to ride the new board first with out them

What have you done to your leg Great fun waves and I love that camera setup, it is so cool to be able to get shots of yourself..
Do you now having had a bit of footage of yourself, feel you look, like you feel when you surf

Yeah your always prone to more injury during the winter months because your bodies circulation is operating differently. The blood vessels are directing blood flow away from the surface of the skin to maintain optimal body temperature (36c-37.5c). As a result your body is less flexible & at greater risk of injury.

YOu might be able to tape one toe to the next one. Might be a good idea to get on the waiting list now to get the surgery done, coz there's usually a bit of a waiting list for non life threatening surgery. I remember this poor barstard who used to get hell pissed coz he's come in for surgery, only to be told it wasn't going to happen due to someone else taking priority. He had a similar health issue.

lol yes...there has been many a time when I thought I'd had a bit of a cover up or turned harder off the top of the wave. That's the best thing about getting footage of yourself, seeing your mistakes. I made plenty yesterday

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MickPC said...

jbshack said...
Sadly i already made the problem worse. The injury is a few years old and has never heeled correctly as its the joint on the toe, so now it sits up higher and when ever it gets a nock, it gets real sore, sadly though i hit it harder than ever, but the cold masked it. They want it operated and pinned but i said after Hawaii.. Funny though it always seems worse in winter, not sure why
I even just received new booties, but wanted to ride the new board first with out them

What have you done to your leg Great fun waves and I love that camera setup, it is so cool to be able to get shots of yourself..
Do you now having had a bit of footage of yourself, feel you look, like you feel when you surf

Yeah your always prone to more injury during the winter months because your bodies circulation is operating differently. The blood vessels are directing blood flow away from the surface of the skin to maintain optimal body temperature (36c-37.5c). As a result your body is less flexible & at greater risk of injury.

YOu might be able to tape one toe to the next one. Might be a good idea to get on the waiting list now to get the surgery done, coz there's usually a bit of a waiting list for non life threatening surgery. I remember this poor barstard who used to get hell pissed coz he's come in for surgery, only to be told it wasn't going to happen due to someone else taking priority. He had a similar health issue.

lol yes...there has been many a time when I thought I'd had a bit of a cover up or turned harder off the top of the wave. That's the best thing about getting footage of yourself, seeing your mistakes. I made plenty yesterday

Bit of bruising already.. Hows the leg Tomorrow is looking good

Yeeeeouch that looks tender Frodo!!

Ah Mr Drop in we had wondered where you had gone

Stop chowing your toe nails JB

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surfnsirhiss said...
Ah Mr Drop in we had wondered where you had gone

Really LOL I havn't surfed Perth in over 20 years & that was never my nickname there...

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jbshack said...


Bit of bruising already.. Hows the leg Tomorrow is looking good

Jeez mate, that does look painful...I'm a bit dissapointed in my leg. I thought it would have a massive purple bruise, but there's only a light bit of redness. So I think its all internal, bruised bone or something. Still having trouble walking, I've got a doctor coming soon to take a look & I need some temazepam.

Enjoyed that mick....and yes getting hurt is easy for some of us. I was being a fool with the crew and ended up.going over the falls...board smashed into my leg,felt like I broke it,looked down blood pissing out. Got to the sand and i have two perfect lines either side of where the rail hit me....hit me that hard I have destroyed the rail, six oz glass and all

I thought I had many manky bits jb......you have surpassed me in so many ways

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chrispy said...
Enjoyed that mick....and yes getting hurt is easy for some of us. I was being a fool with the crew and ended up.going over the falls...board smashed into my leg,felt like I broke it,looked down blood pissing out. Got to the sand and i have two perfect lines either side of where the rail hit me....hit me that hard I have destroyed the rail, six oz glass and all

I thought I had many manky bits jb......you have surpassed me in so many ways

Im really starting to feel old and slow these days ill give you the tip

Sick of injuries..and the worst part all so stupid little fiddly things

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chrispy said...
Enjoyed that mick....and yes getting hurt is easy for some of us. I was being a fool with the crew and ended up.going over the falls...board smashed into my leg,felt like I broke it,looked down blood pissing out. Got to the sand and i have two perfect lines either side of where the rail hit me....hit me that hard I have destroyed the rail, six oz glass and all

I thought I had many manky bits jb......you have surpassed me in so many ways

Cheers mate........Nothing worse than going over the falls & not being able to kick your board away...getting cut & dinging your board as well would suck.

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jbshack said...

chrispy said...
Enjoyed that mick....and yes getting hurt is easy for some of us. I was being a fool with the crew and ended up.going over the falls...board smashed into my leg,felt like I broke it,looked down blood pissing out. Got to the sand and i have two perfect lines either side of where the rail hit me....hit me that hard I have destroyed the rail, six oz glass and all

I thought I had many manky bits jb......you have surpassed me in so many ways

Im really starting to feel old and slow these days ill give you the tip

Sick of injuries..and the worst part all so stupid little fiddly things

I got one of those dial-a-doctor guys to home visit at 6am this morning & he gave me a script for tramadol. Feeling a bit dopey but I can bend the knee a lot more now. The thigh muscles were hurting a lot when I did that before. Dial a doctor rocks, they visit you & your bulk billed. So it costs ya nothing


Surfs not looking too flash either. I popped down with my camera & there were only 2 guys out. There was a little bit of size, but a lot smaller than Monday. Did look fun though.

Scored big time!! Best surf I've had in ages, pumping little bazzas up to a bit overhead. Heaps of grunt and minimal crew.

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MickPC said...

jbshack said...

chrispy said...
Enjoyed that mick....and yes getting hurt is easy for some of us. I was being a fool with the crew and ended up.going over the falls...board smashed into my leg,felt like I broke it,looked down blood pissing out. Got to the sand and i have two perfect lines either side of where the rail hit me....hit me that hard I have destroyed the rail, six oz glass and all

I thought I had many manky bits jb......you have surpassed me in so many ways

Im really starting to feel old and slow these days ill give you the tip

Sick of injuries..and the worst part all so stupid little fiddly things

I got one of those dial-a-doctor guys to home visit at 6am this morning & he gave me a script for tramadol. Feeling a bit dopey but I can bend the knee a lot more now. The thigh muscles were hurting a lot when I did that before. Dial a doctor rocks, they visit you & your bulk billed. So it costs ya nothing


Surfs not looking too flash either. I popped down with my camera & there were only 2 guys out. There was a little bit of size, but a lot smaller than Monday. Did look fun though.

I can go one better, i had a best mate who was a Doctor. You could ring him and tell him to call past with his script pad, so convenient

Expect for the time he tired to change my Heart medication for a free sample of the pill

Sadly though he passed a few years ago

Coupla pics.

some nice waves there Smicko !