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yowiesup said..
Great stuff Todd. What time was it? I see you almost kneeled it at the takeoff was that cause only one wave so make sure no chance to miss it, confused water or were you just knackered by waiting? Did u get immersed to test out dry suit? Did you have 2 cars to get back. Thanks for showing your travels.
Hey mate. Yeah it was late in the afternoon when it finally rolled through. It was dark by the time the wave finished. I did totally kneel on the take off. Definitely to make sure i wouldn't miss it. I though that was definitely the safest way to ensure i got the ride, it was just straight white wash so taking of standing up would of been hard. And yeah one wave a day, you gotta get it and make the most of it. I also didn't know how it was going to look or break it was confusing. As for the pick up situation. We dumped our boards up the point, drove say 10 mins down then walked back to our boards. Before i got the wave my mate said, if you get it ride it as long as you can, climb back up the rocks and i will pick you up down the high way. So yeah i finished the wave paddled back to the rocks and waited on the high way. The dry suit scared me i didn't want to fall in when it was dark i was freaking paddling back to the rocks. Once i touched land i was pretty happy i tell you that. Thanks for the questions.
Todd