This is a Topic worthy of its own discussion.
The point is that when two dissimilar metals are in electrical contact with each other then corrosion will occur.
The rate of corrosion is accelerated, the further those metals are apart on the corrosion chart.
Adding and electrolyte makes those corrosion conditions more favourable.

Key factors: Dissimilar metals, Electricly connected, Electrolytes.

Contecting two dissimilar metals with a conductive bolt and immersing is salt water satisfies the above conditions.

This is my understanding of the situation, and I crave more understanding.

Yes that true , so you need to seperate metals best you can . The electroplating - anodising helps tremendously with this and it's far better now than it used to be plus by adding a anti seize/ Teflon style grease also holds back the reaction. The courser M8 threads are an advantage by letting more of the plating process into the threaded area itself along with the grease plus you have a lot more purchase on the larger head size it ever binds up.

It's just like flushing and servicing a outboard engine it's full of ali & stainless just look after it and you are fine.

I don't know of anyone plating Stainless bolts.
And most platings are by nature electrically conductive.
The Tefgel works great at the thread connection. I believe this is also due to the sealing from electrolytes.
while I can only comment on my Zeeko, the stepped plastic washers and plastic self adhesive strip at mast ends does a lot to keep electrolyte out of the thread area.
plus that is the only areas (stainless bolts into Alloy threads) that I have a Galvanic potential.

My experience with Anodising is that the only version of real value is Hard Anodising, and the colour that comes in is just a few shades of yuk.
The colour versions look cool but not up to the durability I would want.
Anodising is a great pretreatment for powdercoating and our results showed it increased the Salt spray test hours to failure nearly five fold.

My two 2004 Outboards have stood up well but the number of sacrificial anodes and the rate I replace them is very eye opening.




Not me in pic. I'm way better looking imho

This is getting a bit technical and boring , I'll keep it short . The Ali being used is also a higher grade and more corrosive resistant and re the plating it's not just the Anodising by the the substrate treatments prior to this , similar to chromate dipping pre powder coating but much better. The Neil Pryde / Cabrhina bolts are not brass coated stainless (my bad) but anodized Titanium , sweet bit of gear. https://www.neilpryde.com/collections/foils/products/rs-flight-al-foil

Re the Tef grease I use this stuff is the bomb , check it out here:- www.interflon.com/asset/download/42476

Re your boat eating up anodes I'd be looking at a earth leak being a non ferrous trailer boat you shouldn't be burning them up , or there is an earth leak near where you moor your boat when you have it in the water . Nice looking rig BTW , cool ride