Hi all.

I am doing up 2 old wooden oars.
One has a split where it has been laminated.
What is the best glue to use for this?

Thanks

I'd go for a waterproof polyurethane. It's not on a part of the oar that is going to get much stress.

As a tip to get the glue in to the crack: put a bead of glue on one side of the oar and then use a vacuum cleaner hose on the other side to pull it through.

Select to expand quote

BJRobinson said..
Hi all.

I am doing up 2 old wooden oars.
One has a split where it has been laminated.
What is the best glue to use for this?

Thanks

Hi I would use epoxy to glue a thin piece of timber into a groove cut into the end of the blades. I recently did this, using a biscuit cutting tool to create the groove increasing the strength and bond significantly.
For the small delamination in the blade I think I would use thinned epoxy resin such as Everdure to seal and fill the crack, everdure the blade repair after fairing and sanding and the the finnish of choice, varnish or paint.

Select to expand quote

Microbe said..
I'd go for a waterproof polyurethane. It's not on a part of the oar that is going to get much stress.

As a tip to get the glue in to the crack: put a bead of glue on one side of the oar and then use a vacuum cleaner hose on the other side to pull it through.

thanks Microbe.
Great idea using the vacuum.

Select to expand quote

UncleBob said..

BJRobinson said..
Hi all.

I am doing up 2 old wooden oars.
One has a split where it has been laminated.
What is the best glue to use for this?

Thanks

Hi I would use epoxy to glue a thin piece of timber into a groove cut into the end of the blades. I recently did this, using a biscuit cutting tool to create the groove increasing the strength and bond significantly.
For the small delamination in the blade I think I would use thinned epoxy resin such as Everdure to seal and fill the crack, everdure the blade repair after fairing and sanding and the the finnish of choice, varnish or paint.

Thanks Bob.
I was thinking about a biscuit across the crack. But I don't have a cutter and these are pretty old and not worth too much effort being put into them.
I was going to try to bring them up like new, but the water staining is deep. So a cheap repair and a marine varnish will do.
I like the sound of the thin epoxy.

Definatly epoxy. Glue ....then coat with a uv protection varnish ...

Select to expand quote

SandS said..
Definatly epoxy. Glue ....then coat with a uv protection varnish ...

This x100!!

Epoxy is the only way to go

Open out the crack and the tip slightly. Mask the edges and mask the bottom of the oar tip. Mix up a little ordinary epoxy or even Araldite. Smear in the glue and use a hot air gun to blow the glue into the gap. Epoxy when heated initially will become very runny and easily penetrate that sort of gap. Just keep adding the glue till it wont take anymore.

Select to expand quote

Ramona said..
Open out the crack and the tip slightly. Mask the edges and mask the bottom of the oar tip. Mix up a little ordinary epoxy or even Araldite. Smear in the glue and use a hot air gun to blow the glue into the gap. Epoxy when heated initially will become very runny and easily penetrate that sort of gap. Just keep adding the glue till it wont take anymore.

Thanks Romana.
I would have never guessed that heating the epoxy would make it runny. I would have though the exact opposite. Good to know.

Select to expand quote

Ramona said..
Open out the crack and the tip slightly. Mask the edges and mask the bottom of the oar tip. Mix up a little ordinary epoxy or even Araldite. Smear in the glue and use a hot air gun to blow the glue into the gap. Epoxy when heated initially will become very runny and easily penetrate that sort of gap. Just keep adding the glue till it wont take anymore.

Don't need to heat it up if you get the right epoxy. The Surfset Flex will work for you.

www.sanded.com.au/collections/surfboard-resins