just put the first quote of paint on my hull after having spent two weekends scrapping and sanding, so satisfying.



also refitted my rudder which was full of water


before and after

Cut n shut complete looks like I will be clear coating bi-fold doors and painting out at remote islands over Christmas!

Slipped the coffee machine back now it looks the part ! Still trying to clean the garage ready for the final pic!

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cazou34 said..

Great job caz. Exteriour slickness of a yacht is more important than that of the interior.

An earlier poster may disagree with that statement.

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cisco said..

cazou34 said..

Great job caz. Exteriour slickness of a yacht is more important than that of the interior.

An earlier poster may disagree with that statement.

Diver ran a glove over my slick hull yesterday "free of charge" she was antifouled in March so just bit of slime reported.

My past 3 yachts have been stripped back to original gelcoat and 5 coats of epoxy resin applied to protect from water ingress and big hungry worms! ????

You have worms on your brain.

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cisco said..
You have worms on your brain.

No not at all, I don't have to worry about worms in my rudder I'm glad that you rebuilt your tiller blade and I hope you applied many coats of epoxy and skin to keep the buggers out.
I'm now stocked up and departing on Saturday for 3 weeks of cruising in Presteigne worm free water ways.

some news from the yard
Just applied primer on the bottom and undercoat mixed with final coat on the topside, looks good already, can't wait to see it done! But will have to do a bit of sanding first... again. I feel like the sanding block is part of my body now.





Any tips to remove seized stainless bolt in aluminum mast? They are pretty much welded by the corrosion and break easily when trying with a vise grip. I tried heat, wd40, hammer...but dont want to damage the mast

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cazou34 said..
some news from the yard
Just applied primer on the bottom and undercoat mixed with final coat on the topside, looks good already, can't wait to see it done! But will have to do a bit of sanding first... again. I feel like the sanding block is part of my body now.





Any tips to remove seized stainless bolt in aluminum mast? They are pretty much welded by the corrosion and break easily when trying with a vise grip. I tried heat, wd40, hammer...but dont want to damage the mast

She's looking good, I'm guessing your going to drop the arms on the cradle to complete the hull painting? A good sharp drill bit should fix them bolts!

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She's looking good, I'm guessing your going to drop the arms on the cradle to complete the hull painting? A good sharp drill bit should fix them bolts!

Yes I will just put two coats of yellow topcoat underneath the pads, one by one using an acrow prop to support.
Will have to buy better drill bits then!

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cazou34 said..

She's looking good, I'm guessing your going to drop the arms on the cradle to complete the hull painting? A good sharp drill bit should fix them bolts!

Yes I will just put two coats of yellow topcoat underneath the pads, one by one using an acrow prop to support.
Will have to buy better drill bits then!

And a centre punch!

Posted on the wrong thread

Regards Don

I noticed on the last couple of outings the headsail sheet winches felt a bit notchy under load and sounded dry. So after an enforced inprisonment due to some health issues I happily snuck down the boat and pulled them all off the deck, (not a big job when you only have 4 of them) to give them a good going over top to bottom.
The notchiness it turned out was coming from the mating of the surfaces between the brass primary gear cog and the stainless collar. The brass was sharp on the flat surface where the edge of the stainless collar met, where it had been slowing making a ridge, increasing the friction when under load.
It took about 10 mins per winch with a flat file and some sandpaper, and then put it all back together dry. After checking there are no left over bits and everything was working, I pulled it apart again for pawl oil and winch grease before final reassembly.
They now they feel better than new. It still surprises me how quick winches can be broken down, I reckon the first one, a big primary ST, was completely disassembled and being cleaned in a bucket in a couple of minutes.
I need to be more diligent, that ridge wouldn't have happened if it was properly lubed.
Happy winches, happy skipper.

That time again - I just love doing this :(

Been 3 years since last slipped (work commitments), I'll never let it go that long again!!

The prop & rudder anodes were completely gone but the two, large, hull anodes were hardly worn at all. Does it hurt to have them too big or should I put smaller anodes on the hull?

I tried "Pellerclean" for the first time. A DIY Propspeed. Looks good but we'll see how it goes.

I also made the mistake of masking up & letting it get rained on - when I peeled it off it left the residue!

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Lazzz said..

The prop & rudder anodes were completely gone but the two, large, hull anodes were hardly worn at all. Does it hurt to have them too big or should I put smaller anodes on the hull?

What is the hull construction?

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Ramona said..


What is the hull construction?

Steel

New Window tint for acrylic .keeping her cool in summer

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Lazzz said..
That time again - I just love doing this :(

Been 3 years since last slipped (work commitments), I'll never let it go that long again!!

The prop & rudder anodes were completely gone but the two, large, hull anodes were hardly worn at all. Does it hurt to have them too big or should I put smaller anodes on the hull?

The trawler anodes are probably not doing much other than slowing the boat. Anodes are meant to protect the expensive metal where you have mixed metals. To do this they have to be close and have an electrical connection like you have with the propeller anode. There does not seem to be anything out on the hull where the large anodes are. The mild steel can look after itself and just needs paint. The bits that need protecting in the photos are the propeller first then the shaft and bearings in the rudder. Perhaps a teardrop anode just above the rudder fittings on the skeg and a small strap to join them together. The bearings are probably plastic anyway so they wont be connected to the SS shaft anyway. SS and mild steel are fairly close on the table so it's just the prop to worry about. The small rudder anode is probably not doing much out there.

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Ramona said..

The trawler anodes are probably not doing much other than slowing the boat. Anodes are meant to protect the expensive metal where you have mixed metals. To do this they have to be close and have an electrical connection like you have with the propeller anode. There does not seem to be anything out on the hull where the large anodes are. The mild steel can look after itself and just needs paint. The bits that need protecting in the photos are the propeller first then the shaft and bearings in the rudder. Perhaps a teardrop anode just above the rudder fittings on the skeg and a small strap to join them together. The bearings are probably plastic anyway so they wont be connected to the SS shaft anyway. SS and mild steel are fairly close on the table so it's just the prop to worry about. The small rudder anode is probably not doing much out there.

Thanks for the info Ramona - I might change things next time out.

I'm currently working 700km WNW of Alice Springs, but that doesn't limit the ability to need to spend money on boats!
New Dodger and Sail Bag for the boat, located at Port Albert Vic.

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Lazzz said..

Ramona said..

The trawler anodes are probably not doing much other than slowing the boat. Anodes are meant to protect the expensive metal where you have mixed metals. To do this they have to be close and have an electrical connection like you have with the propeller anode. There does not seem to be anything out on the hull where the large anodes are. The mild steel can look after itself and just needs paint. The bits that need protecting in the photos are the propeller first then the shaft and bearings in the rudder. Perhaps a teardrop anode just above the rudder fittings on the skeg and a small strap to join them together. The bearings are probably plastic anyway so they wont be connected to the SS shaft anyway. SS and mild steel are fairly close on the table so it's just the prop to worry about. The small rudder anode is probably not doing much out there.

Thanks for the info Ramona - I might change things next time out.

With a steely the hull anodes only start to work when the paint has been breached or around bronze thu hulls/seacocks, so big chunky jobs don't seem to be nessasry. As Ramona said its all about protecting the prop. After a few haul outs you get an idea of what's been working and what's not
Oh yeah welded on anodes have superior connectivity

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woko said

With a steely the hull anodes only start to work when the paint has been breached or around bronze thu hulls/seacocks, so big chunky jobs don't seem to be nessasry. As Ramona said its all about protecting the prop. After a few haul outs you get an idea of what's been working and what's not
Oh yeah welded on anodes have superior connectivity

Thanks for that

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DAMA said..
New Window tint for acrylic .keeping her cool in summer

I didn't know you could tint acrylic

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andy59 said..

DAMA said..
New Window tint for acrylic .keeping her cool in summer

I didn't know you could tint acrylic

http://www.hanitacoatings.com/films/products/solarzone/polyzone

99% UV block, works a treat , more scratch resistant than the acrylic.

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DAMA said..

andy59 said..

DAMA said..
New Window tint for acrylic .keeping her cool in summer

I didn't know you could tint acrylic

http://www.hanitacoatings.com/films/products/solarzone/polyzone

99% UV block, works a treat , more scratch resistant than the acrylic.

thanks

reflective films are definitely very effective. they can be unpleasant for the people on the other boats around you though...

Cabin top painted with Aqua trim and kiwi grip applied hard work but worth it if you love boats!

dd

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andy59 said..

DAMA said..

andy59 said..

DAMA said..
New Window tint for acrylic .keeping her cool in summer

I didn't know you could tint acrylic

http://www.hanitacoatings.com/films/products/solarzone/polyzone

99% UV block, works a treat , more scratch resistant than the acrylic.

thanks

Andy
if your after tint for hatches windows etc,
contact Truman at 1300gettint. He is very professional and stands by his work.

I am about to replace my problematic VHF mast aerial. The current cable appears to be coax vc2095.

can anyone tell if this is a common VHF marine cable ?

I'm planning to replace with RG213U and it's going to be a bugger of a job.

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Andrew68 said..
I am about to replace my problematic VHF mast aerial. The current cable appears to be coax vc2095.

can anyone tell if this is a common VHF marine cable ?

I'm planning to replace with RG213U and it's going to be a bugger of a job.

Hi Andrew,
I thought (almost sure) VC2095 was 75ohm coaxial cable, which is used for baseband and broadband video signals, like your cctv camera or tv aerial coax.

This would definitely be the wrong cable for your vhf, where you need 50 ohm coax like rg58 (6mm) and RG213 (12mm)

Im surprised it worked at all!

You could even try another small one like your existing one, but with the right impedance of 50 ohm, like an RG 58.

Hope this helps!