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rumblefish said..
Ok, my thoughts on the subject.
Firstly I always think the standard reefing line setup doesn't pull the foot of the sail tight enough. Saw a world cruiser recently who had setup dyneema strops from the back of the boom to each reef line (where it went around the boom) which tightened the foot, the leach can be tightened with the main sheet.
On inner forestays (IFS), if you do them out of dyneema you need more than a highfield to tighten as the dyneema will shrink when stored and you'll never get it tight again.
A small purchase with the tail run to the capstan on the anchor winch or or back to a winch will be needed.
Now my ideal setup would be a Genoa on a furler then 2-3 sails of different sizes on endless furlers that your hoist as IFS like open 60's do. These would go on a halyard lock at their mast entry point and have tensioning system at the tack.
The main would have 3 reefs with the 3rd being deep.
7/8 rig with twin swept spreaders but still runners for the IFS when its blowing
Agree with you on the endless furler setup. I have my storm jib and #4 staysail on endless furler. Usually leave the staysail hoisted ready to peploy as required. If expecting to use the stormjib then try to make the change early so not on the foredeck in 40 knots wrestling the furled sail. It is possibly to make the sailchange through the forward hatch while standing on the shower seat/ toilet but it does mean that the forward hatch is open in a seaway. The staysail is very high aspect and requires extreme care and good technique to avoid a furling override and major cluster****.
Have two reefs which in reality is a 1.5 and 3 reef good for above 25 knots apparent and 35 apparent respectively. Can comfortably put the reef in at 35 knots singlehanded. Ie system has been modified and practiced with marks on the halyards and reefing lines etc. I always reef on starboard tack because of location of halyard on cockpit and a short tether jack line that I have setup on the starboard ( Windward) cabin top. The tail of the mainhalyard is lead back through the deck organiser and jammer to the second reef luff eye. From the cockpit on short tether can lower halyard to appropriate mark and pull sail down and jamb with tail. Take up slack on reef line on port winch, move forward and secure tack. I have a Dyneema strop fixed to port gooseneck reefing eye which is passed through the reefing eye , around the mast, back through the eye and snapshackled to the starboard gooseneck eye. The strop is long enough to allow the eye to sit on top of the car stack. When the halyard is tensioned the choke around the mast holds the reef tack nice and close to the mast and allows good luff tension. Adequate foot tension can be obtained by cranking on the reef line. A good lazyjack bag elimates the need for reef ties and the reef lines are run on opposites sides to the boom which adds to the restraint of the sailfoot. Will sometimes throw a sailtie around the foot at the reef clew for added tidiness. Have only ever used a trisail once in anger because of a failure in the second reef system. It took four experienced and strong crew to about an hour (in 50 Knots) to sort out the trisail. Don't think I could do it solo and would be a struggle shorthanded.
The big hole in a 2 very deep reef setup is the most common sailing breeze between 20 to 25 knots apparent. Am either overpowered or grossly underpowered. Will get three reefs in next main.