Hey All.

Just had a quick question. As per the photo i have the pictured hardware on my boom for reefing. I was wondering what everyones thoughts were about how this should be set up. The green line would work for the first reef and the red for the second reef but im not sure if this is how it should be set up. Note that there isnt enough space through the sheave to run two lines.

Whats everones thoughts around the best setup? Also whats the purpose of the two adjustable stops with eyes on the track? Im a bit of a newb so any advice appreciated. This is on an Endeavour 26...

Cheers

As always with rigging it's best to consult the Selden PDF.

www.seldenmast.com/files/1416926327/595-540-E.pdf

The reefing lines will have to go back to the mast at a minumum and preferably through turning blocks back to the cockpit.

I'm presuming the red and white rope is your topping lift then the green line is probably OK for the first reef. Two lines on the one sheave is a bit weird. I would suggest the first reef line run outside the boom. The two adjustable stops are for the tails of the reefing line. The lines run around the boom and attach to the eyes and these are adjusted to get the correct foot tension when you reef.
This mine. There is another slide on the other side, I have 3 reefs. The turning blocks slide along the track and the tail of the reefing line passes around the boom and attaches to the bottom of the block. 3 reefing lines run outside the boom.

Thanks Ramona,
It's a nice set up. Would you be kind enough to show us in detail your arrangements for the tack as well ?
A

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Ramona said..
As always with rigging it's best to consult the Selden PDF.

www.seldenmast.com/files/1416926327/595-540-E.pdf

The reefing lines will have to go back to the mast at a minumum and preferably through turning blocks back to the cockpit.

Thanks for the info on rigging Ramona its great info

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Andrew68 said..
Thanks Ramona,
It's a nice set up. Would you be kind enough to show us in detail your arrangements for the tack as well ?
A

Have not got a really clear picture handy but this will give you some idea. The deck layout shot needs to be viewed to make some sense of it. On the Stb side on the boom fwd is the third reefing line [red]. The second reefing line is on the Stb side of the mast just under the sail cover [blue and white]. The first reef is on the Port side of the mast [yellow] in the same position as 2 but it crosses over to the deck turning block on the Stb side.
So on the cabin top aft the clew reefing lines start with one on the outside working into 3 in the middle. The tack reefing lines go on the Stb side with the same routine one on the outside and moving into the centre for 3. It may look confusing but this is the way she did 5 Syd Hobarts. By the time you get down to the 3rd reef you tend appreciate why the third reef lines are more central and red. I can usually drop in a reef in about a minute [solo] although Saturday when I had too I realized it's been awhile and took longer.

Hi Ramona

Just a question

In the drawing above you have 2 spinnaker pole topping lifts running through jammers but the kicker is on a cleat

Any reason for that

Regards Don

Hi Ramona,

Thanks for posting the diagram of the cabin top layout.
Do you have a fairlead at the gooseneck level for the luff reefing lines to counter the foot tension . Also how do you deal with the stack of luff slides and full length batten slides with say a third reef.

Regards

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Donk107 said..
Hi Ramona

Just a question

In the drawing above you have 2 spinnaker pole topping lifts running through jammers but the kicker is on a cleat

Any reason for that

Regards Don

The kicker or vang is through a horizontal jammer.

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NeilC said..
Hi Ramona,

Thanks for posting the diagram of the cabin top layout.
Do you have a fairlead at the gooseneck level for the luff reefing lines to counter the foot tension . Also how do you deal with the stack of luff slides and full length batten slides with say a third reef.

Regards

The reefing lines turning blocks are at the boom centre line height. The saddles the ends of the reefing lines terminate at are on the mast just below the gooseneck height about the centre so the lines probably head up to the cringles at about 45 degrees or so when the sail is reefed. This holds the foot tension as well as providing luff tension. I have a whipping on the halyard that marks the correct height when I reef. I drop the sail so that is just visible outside the jammer. This leaves the luff cringle a few inches above the gooseneck and this becomes the new Cunningham eye, the sail is tensioned with a winch. Same with the second and third reef. The full length batons just lay in the stackpack. The slides are not a problem. With the second and third reef I may juggle a bit between the main halyard and the luff reefing lines to get enough tension. It's easier to tension the luff downwards than trying to get enough with the halyard. I rarely have used the third reef, I would rather be sitting at my mooring than getting a hiding these days. Being a pensioner I can just go sailing on nice days.

It's best to mark the halyard at your mooring before you go sailing.

I use much the same setup as Ramona but take both inner and outer lines to the Stb side, and I use the Selden method of leading the outer lines through sheaves on the ends of the boom, I tie off the standing part to the boom just a shade aft of the cringle. Works for me. I like Ramonas outer reefing setup better than bramsden, those slides are better off without side load. Ramona has no side load on his outer turning block.

Ramona , Thanks for the explanation. Marking or whipping the various lines at the set points is good advice.
Trying to avoid having to go up to the mast to hook the luff cringle ring onto the gooseneck horns and open the sail track gate to remove or refit luff slides.
I too am with you on the pensioner / third reef approach.

Regards

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bramsden said..
Hey All.

Just had a quick question. As per the photo i have the pictured hardware on my boom for reefing. I was wondering what everyones thoughts were about how this should be set up. The green line would work for the first reef and the red for the

Is perhaps the second block with the red line back to front ? If it was my boat I would try and run the green reef line back into the boom as you have suggested. I would reverse the red block and take the red reefing line along the outside of the boom back towards the gooseneck to a cleat or to the deck via another cheek block at the end of the boom.

A

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Ramona said..

Andrew68 said..
Thanks Ramona,
It's a nice set up. Would you be kind enough to show us in detail your arrangements for the tack as well ?
A

Have not got a really clear picture handy but this will give you some idea ................. The reefing lines turning blocks are at the boom centre line height. The saddles the ends of the reefing lines terminate at are on the mast just below the gooseneck height about the centre so the lines probably head up to the cringles at about 45 degrees or so when the sail is reefed. This holds the foot tension as well as providing luff tension. I have a whipping on the halyard that marks the correct height when I reef. I drop the sail so that is just visible outside the jammer. This leaves the luff cringle a few inches above the gooseneck and this becomes the new Cunningham eye, the sail is tensioned with ...........

Here is a picture of my Currawong at the mainsail tack. I think it is the same as Ramona's (ie without reefing hooks). On my boat, the first reef is run through the boom with provision for the 2nd and 3rd reef on either side of the outside of the boom (currently vacant). The other line inside the boom that exits at the mast is the outhaul.

If you look very very carefully there are two fragile saddles welded to the gooseneck and this seems to be all that keeps the tension on the foot of the main sail. Likewise, I need to be very careful not to over tension this tiny eyelet and I have some bright pink tape on the line to mark the limits. Initially I wasn't comfortable without reefing hooks, but it has held up in 45knots gusts on the first reef with the No4 jib - still tempted to put in a loop of spectra around the mast just in case to stop it working aft. The previous owners had a single line system, but I have converted it back to separate lines on tack and clew.

Also in the photo you can see the original boom position (where the six holes are below the goose neck). In the past, the boom was moved up about 4" up, presumably to give more head room and take advantage of surplus mast available post IOR.

My reefing tack lines end at saddles riveted to the mast just below and forward of the gooseneck. Those saddles are plenty strong enough.

Interesting how you have your dorade cowl vents facing aft!

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Ramona said..
My reefing tack lines end at saddles riveted to the mast just below and forward of the gooseneck. Those saddles are plenty strong enough.

Interesting how you have your dorade cowl vents facing aft!

Same here. A 3/16 rivet holds 500 kg so that's 2000 kg total from the two saddles. Plenty strong enough.

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Ramona said..
Interesting how you have your dorade cowl vents facing aft!

The cover on those vents is actually on backwards compared to the hole, so they let a bit of water in from time to time. A previous owner spun them around to take advantage of the dominate Melbourne southerly whilst in a fixed berth.
A