I have a very small leak in my Starboard side cabin window. This is an embedded window with no frame.
The leak is so small I am unable to identify where it is actually getting in and it is just enough to be annoying after a number of days rain. It doesn’t pool anywhere but just below the window there is some damp (Not condensation).

Two questions for the group.

1. What is involved in removing the window and re bedding, Window is approx. 1.5m long by 400mm high.

2. Has anyone got any other suggestions for sealing this without removing the window? Does anyone have any experience with this product www.captaintolley.com/

Scatter some talcum powder in the area and see if that shows up the leak. That captain tolly's stuff is supposed to be good but expensive. Try some boncrete concrete glue. Its cheap and its a superb waterproof glue. Water it down a bit if you have to and let it run into the leak when you find it. It dries sort of clear. The tolleys stuff is probably very similar. With Boncrete you can use it for other projects.

Dow Corning 734 is a flowable sealant designed for filling minute cracks and crevices according to packaging. I would certainly try to locate the crack? and try to inject sealant in perhaps with a hyperdermic syringe before contemplating removal of a window. If all else fails stick duct tape over the crack.

Hey RiffRaff, It looks like someone decided to colour code responses to this topic. As you spoke about the starboard window yours is colour coded green. My suggested repairs are applicable to port side windows only and have appropriately been colour coded red. Hope that clears up any misunderstanding for anyone else out there.

Does that mean the Dow Corning product will not work after all, Guess I will have to go with Tolley’s then.

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RiffRaff said..
Does that mean the Dow Corning product will not work after all, Guess I will have to go with Tolley’s then.

Actually had another look at the product packaging, It is in a predominately green (Dow Corning) tube so it might be suitable for the starboard side after all. Probably best to ask the sales people at Blackwoods for confirmation.
if you finish up resorting to a duct tape fix see if you can get double sided tape as that is good for both sides.
cheers
Frant

When you identify the source of the leak and if you haven't yet managed to find a sealer, may I suggest superglue and baking soda. Use the thin and runny glue and inject it into the area of the leak and the sprinkle baking soda on top of that.

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LooseChange said..
When you identify the source of the leak and if you haven't yet managed to find a sealer, may I suggest superglue and baking soda. Use the thin and runny glue and inject it into the area of the leak and the sprinkle baking soda on top of that.

I don't know what the chemical process is with CA (cyanoacrylate) and baking soda, but it sets as hard as a rock in a very exothermic reaction. Don't do too big a volume at once (1 cm cubed is more than I'd do), it heats up something fierce. I've heard of people setting balsa planes on fire by trying to do too much at once.

I've only ever put the baking soda in first and then hit it with the CA. You end up with a very hard shape that is only possible to be further shaped with metalworking tools (files, grinders etc). So get the powder in the correct shape first, before hitting it with the glue or you'll be very sorry!!

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nebbian said..

LooseChange said..
When you identify the source of the leak and if you haven't yet managed to find a sealer, may I suggest superglue and baking soda. Use the thin and runny glue and inject it into the area of the leak and the sprinkle baking soda on top of that.

I don't know what the chemical process is with CA (cyanoacrylate) and baking soda, but it sets as hard as a rock in a very exothermic reaction. Don't do too big a volume at once (1 cm cubed is more than I'd do), it heats up something fierce. I've heard of people setting balsa planes on fire by trying to do too much at once.

I've only ever put the baking soda in first and then hit it with the CA. You end up with a very hard shape that is only possible to be further shaped with metalworking tools (files, grinders etc). So get the powder in the correct shape first, before hitting it with the glue or you'll be very sorry!!

Sounds like exactly NOT the way to attempt to repair what should remain a flexible patchup to a flexible join.
Boy wasn't it fun back before epoxy when we used polyester resins for fibreglass repair work. Wanted to get back in the water in a hurry, put in a few more drops of catalyst.

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nebbian said..

LooseChange said..
When you identify the source of the leak and if you haven't yet managed to find a sealer, may I suggest superglue and baking soda. Use the thin and runny glue and inject it into the area of the leak and the sprinkle baking soda on top of that.

I don't know what the chemical process is with CA (cyanoacrylate) and baking soda, but it sets as hard as a rock in a very exothermic reaction. Don't do too big a volume at once (1 cm cubed is more than I'd do), it heats up something fierce. I've heard of people setting balsa planes on fire by trying to do too much at once.

I've only ever put the baking soda in first and then hit it with the CA. You end up with a very hard shape that is only possible to be further shaped with metalworking tools (files, grinders etc). So get the powder in the correct shape first, before hitting it with the glue or you'll be very sorry!!

If the leak is as minor as what has been stated then I doubt that you would ever get enough CA and baking soda in there to create a thermal runaway situation.

Personally I would only use fixtech, I have the same style of window fittings and will in time mask and grout a nice neat gusett over the originnal which is I geuss sikaflex. I also have a crack that luckily does not leak and I belive it appeared while the re-fitting was taken out just a few years ago.

i also do not recommend anyone using over 3% catalyst! 2.7% max in polyester. Heat the resin and area rather than adding extra Drops!

regards

southace

Our cabin top fixed windows were leaking a bit. The old outer sealant around the edge of the windows was dug out as much as possible and neatly resealed with sikaflex 295UV. So far so good, no leaks and looks much better.

I fixed mine with Sickaflex

I have the same problem. So did you guys do that without removing the windows? I thought I would have to remove them to re seal according to advice I was given.

To fix the problem properly you have to address the issue and start again from scratch or you are just doing a band aid job,