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cisco said..Kankama said..
As for splices, I never bother. I don't use shackles on most halyards so a knot is fine for me. Simple, cheaper and easier.
I believe spectra halyards are the best way to go but spectra I am told may fail on sharp bends. I am re-rigging with spectra and at the sail end, bending it around a thimble, knotting it with a bowline and stitching the bight and tail of the knot with substantial sail twine.
Doing it that way means you can attach a swivel snap shackle to the end of the halyard and not be bothered tying a knot each time you attach the halyard to the sail.
I am sort of assuming that is what you do Kankama.

Splices are a pain in the neck......and hands when you have to do them.
Yeah don't splice!!! Well not full covered spectra splice anyway!!!
OK, (and I'm a rigger so I do this a bit!!) firstly if you do a full covered eye splice you will just end up with a big, stiff piece of rope just where you don't want it, right at the sail end. Ever wonder why soooo many boats are hard to pull the last 2 feet of main halyard up?? It's because of the stiff splice usually!
Option 1 - A halyard knot
Works better than a bowline as it locks down on the shackle and not only means you can hoist higher but also less wear as with a bowline the shackle can move on the rope.
As for weakening the rope as Cisco has said, not usually an issue on non-grand prix boats. Let's say you have a standard sort of masthead 30 footer. Your main halyard loads would never exceed 1000kg and your genoa halyards 1250kg. So if you put 10mm spectra as halyards it has a 5300kg break, think a knot that might weaken 50% will be fine!!
A couple of notes on the halyard knot, the shackle diameter has to be less than the line diameter and once tight you will never get undone, so cut the knot out and end for end your halyard every so often.
Option 2 - A tip splice with brummel. This is where you join a length of dyneema to the core of your spectra and then put a brummel locking splice in the end of the dyneema.
This takes a bit of time and effort but you can end up with very neat halyards with no knots and no stiff section passing through the blocks. You can get as fancy as you like and make the tip very long to save weight (stopping just short of clutcghes at biggest reef) or just 3-4m at the end. You can change out tips fairly easily if they chafe.
Oh and another tio, for main and jib halyards on boats upto about 35ft, use cheap commodity S/S captive pin shackles.
www.bridco.com.au/Captive-Pin-D-Shackle.html Using a halyard knot they lock into the knot and you will loose the pin, and they are cheap!!!