That is a pic of my front stay connection, it is adjustable. It is impossible to pull hard enough to connect it the way it shoul... was like that when I bought it. Is it possible to buy a king og "extension about 400mm long the same size of the existing fittings with a double handed end (fork) and a single ended end to replace the D shackle. I don't really like the look of the d shackle Any idea where to buy online? could not find one here in Perth, since BYAS closed it is hell to get that sort of fittings.

Would that be suitable? strong enough? the pins seems to be smaller than mine. 7.4mm against 8.9mm will be floating in the existing setup.

Bit hard to see what is going on there. Got more photos showing more of the connections? What is the swaged eye cable for? Hard to tell what the split pin is doing.

Attempted to explain better below.
Any suggestion welcomed!

Forestay Tensioner... The lower flexible section of the forestay runs through a slot in the bow fitting. The cable then goes around an angled below deck roller. The roller bracket has studs that project through the bow fitting and secured by the two top acorn nuts.The 12:1 tensioning system runs below deck along the gunwhale.NB. There is a well in the front of the bow that drains water that enters through the slot in the bow fitting.Thanks to Peter Barter.





I found this info above on the Elliott web info site and maybe you delete the safety strop and connect a new strop below deck back to the 12:1 blocks and get rid of the D shackle.

All the best

Anthony.

I have an adjustable forestay and just replaced a similar strop the on the weekend 5mm wire rope with 2 thimbles, $30 done by a rigging shop. Just add the 20mm or whatever.

I don't have a redundant strop.

Its not something simple like the back stay pulled on too hard or too much rake?

Hey mate,

Can send one of these to you direct, just let me know pin sizes for both ends, the jaw width of the bottom clevis and the width of the top eye.



But......If it was me I would replace with 6mm dyneema attached with a shorter shackle, but that's me.

And finally, if you need any yacht parts, advice or repairs in Perth, forget the Bias/Whitworths of the world and go see the guys @ Boating Hardware on Carrington St. in O'Connor. They are yachties (not power boaters) and can help you out

Select to expand quote

rumblefish said..
Hey mate,

Can send one of these to you direct, just let me know pin sizes for both ends, the jaw width of the bottom clevis and the width of the top eye.

?itok=X8-_LWIq

But......If it was me I would replace with 6mm dyneema attached with a shorter shackle, but that's me.

And finally, if you need any yacht parts, advice or repairs in Perth, forget the Bias/Whitworths of the world and go see the guys @ Boating Hardware on Carrington St. in O'Connor. They are yachties (not power boaters) and can help you out

Thank you mate! that exactly what i need, I will go to the boat sunday and let you know the pins size!
Thank you for the address for boat Hardware!

Select to expand quote

Trek said..

Its not something simple like the back stay pulled on too hard or too much rake?

No back stay and yes the mast is fairly well racked back but it is the way it should be........ she goes fast and do not want to touch the setings. i tried everything like disconnecting and pulling hard with the main sheet but I am still 20mm short

What about a small Hyfield Lever.
M27s and S80s use them as a coarse adjustment adding forestay tension for racing, then release after racing so the rig is slack again. In fact I wouldn't be surprised if that was what was there originally...