This is approximately where the head will go the elbow is the outlet to the outlet sea cock and the the barb on the motor the inlet from the just below the sea strainer in the engine bay photo below


sea water level is just under the the bottom of the sea strainer which in the head photo would be at the macerator motor level
I intend to fit a a s/s T where the barrel fitting is and run a s/s pipe across into the head compartment through the fiberglass wall and then fit a ball valve for the inlet side of the head
The out let sea cock would be below and to side of the head in the direction of the elbow is pointing to a new hull through sea cock .
My question is .Should I fit a vented loop. on either or both inlet and out let hoses
I may fit a holding tank later .

Thinking about it a little longer I think I better vent both sides if used and left open while sailing I might run into a problem
So I'll sort it out and probably alter how the the macerator and inlet and out let of the head again


Answered my own question
I think Ill run a inlet vent at the inlet ball valve on the head compartment side of the engine bay wall and the out let on that rear head compartment bulk head

Definitely vent both inlet & outlet.

Cheers Lazzarae

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HG02 said..



This is approximately where the head will go the elbow is the outlet to the outlet sea cock and the the barb on the motor the inlet from the just below the sea strainer in the engine bay photo below


sea water level is just under the the bottom of the sea strainer which in the head photo would be at the macerator motor level
I intend to fit a a s/s T where the barrel fitting is and run a s/s pipe across into the head compartment through the fiberglass wall and then fit a ball valve for the inlet side of the head
The out let sea cock would be below and to side of the head in the direction of the elbow is pointing to a new hull through sea cock .
My question is .Should I fit a vented loop. on either or both inlet and out let hoses
I may fit a holding tank later .

Thinking about it a little longer I think I better vent both sides if used and left open while sailing I might run into a problem
So I'll sort it out and probably alter how the the macerator and inlet and out let of the head again


Answered my own question
I think Ill run a inlet vent at the inlet ball valve on the head compartment side of the engine bay wall and the out let on that rear head compartment bulk head

Hi, the vented loop for the inlet needs to be fitted between the pump outlet and the flush commection to the bowl. Another vented loop needs to be fitted to the toilet outlet. Both need to extend above heeled waterline.
If you fit the inlet vent prior to the pump, it will suck air and water and wear the seal between the water and **** side of the pump. You end up pumping dirty water back into the bowl.
The PO of my boat fitted the head as you described, and it is not a pleasant task rebuilding the pump, trust me.

Thanks uncle bob

Question! why do you need to vent the inlet?

Can see venting the outlet, but I do neither,

My seacocks are always turned off and only opened to flush and then closed immediately.

That way there are no open seacocks to flood the boat.

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nswsailor said..
Question! why do you need to vent the inlet?

Can see venting the outlet, but I do neither,

My seacocks are always turned off and only opened to flush and then closed immediately.

That way there are no open seacocks to flood the boat.

That is the way I see it too.

That what I do always ,even after running the motor the same sea cock for the motor will also be feeding the head inlet the head will have its own ball valve running off just below the engine sea strainer

Hi HG

Have you decided not to move it back up the front against to its original position

Regards Don

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Donk107 said..
Hi HG

Have you decided not to move it back up the front against to its original position

Regards Don

Hi Donk
Im fitting it next to the companion way steps . I did have another look and thought about it but Im happy with how it will fit and work out. Just means the fridge cabinet will also be modified so it has a sink as well as a fridge. Ive been looking at the Ingels DIY kit as we have an account with them at work the retail price is around $899 . Bit I still have to do some reseach yet it will be a couple of month before I start that project Link below
http://www.engelaustralia.com.au/2products_details.asp?pid=12&productid=21607
At the moment the stove area looks like this Ive removed the louvered cabinet doors and frame and also opened up the cabinet it self so it centered to the stove. I will fill in the cut out to the left hand side at the bulk head or it might still become a storage compartment on the head side sealed off at the stove bulk head ( nice high and dry spot for extra toilet rolls)


But I find these small cabinets are a pain to get any thing out of or find things so When I make the bench top for the stove I may run the bench top right through into the cabinet and just have it open and peg my dinner set inside to the stove bench top a continuous line . I have enough room to build a full width draw under the stove so thinking pots and pans in the draw below the stove and the cup plates and bowls ect above . I will make a removable bench top that fits directly above the stove so when the stove is not in use it can be used as a 900 x 600 bench top
at the moment it looks like the photo below cant seem to find a good photo of it Ill have to take another
The bulk head on the left will have the head compartment wall fitted to it up the the cabin roof probably in cedar and maybe some stainless lower down near the stove burners. I have to make a liners for the stove to swing in much like this another
sea breezers steel yacht








Buit after many hours of unscrewing qall the screws holding the cabinet doors heres the result



Its a real pain taking the screws out of the back off these flat bladed screws that you cant see They would have been originally fitted before the furniture molds were glassed into the boat.at least 14 flat bladed wood screws. Over the past month or so Id do one a day They were a real pain in the lower end I can tell you

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nswsailor said..
Question! why do you need to vent the inlet?

Can see venting the outlet, but I do neither,

My seacocks are always turned off and only opened to flush and then closed immediately.

That way there are no open seacocks to flood the boat.

Fair enough. If both seacocks are closed on time every time for a head fitted on or below the waterline there will be no problem.
If for whatever reason they are not then there will be a steady trickle of water over the rim of the bowl, siphons are such a wonderful thing.
I view the addition of a couple of vented loops in much the same way as insurance, it may not be necessary BUT.

murphy's law
Usually every thing goes fine but when you have some one not so boater on board that's when some thing like a sea cock left open could