Six or more months back there was a post about deck wash pumps but not all questioned were answered.

1. Is it ok to Tee off the toilet Seacock for water supply? I assume it's ok but maybe not if the deck wash flow rate is high. The larger pumps have a 3/4" hose inlet. I think my toilet supply is smaller. Need to check.

2. Can I have a Tee in the supply to the pump so I can switch between salt water and freshwater. Get the bird crap off the deck with sea water and give sensitive parts a fresh water spray at the end of a clean up. Also flushes salt out of pump.

3. Do people wash down their solar panels with a Deck wash? Saltwater? Risk breaking waterproof seals?

4. I can't put in a proper 3/4" skin fitting for quite a while. Anything wrong with making up a temporary portable 12V plug in set up and just throw the suction hose over the side?

5. Flow rates of different pumps seem to cover a range 5 to 25 LPM. I assume bigger boats need faster flow rate to speed up job. What flow rate do I need? Fibreglass Cat 10.85 m

Question 1
I can't see a problem with a T off the head
Adding fresh water would mean having the water higher than the pump makes it self priming
Would need to Add an Extra T and another Ball valve
As far as throwing the inlet over the side priming would be a problem maybe a non return valve
Bubbles recommended me a Johnston
wash down pump Ive still to fit it next month maybe two
But the Johnston has the best pressure

I can not see problem
Except for this stupid phone I'm trying to use

Id try a T off the head see how it performs as Id say you will have some sort of nozzle on end of the wash down hose.
It worth a try if it works out buy another T and ball valve for you fresh water option
The pump below if you lok at the spec has a 8.2 foot lift as long as you had a non return valve and primed it

Hello Rob
This is how my boat is set up and your requirements may be different.
I'm currently replacing my deck wash pump (down at the boat today). My original was a Jabsco 90L/m belt driven pump with a hand operated clutch and the new one is the same size pump but has an electric clutch (like your cars air conditioner has). I replaced the pump as the parts to service the clutch arrangement were hard to come by and very expensive. I've never used this pump to it's full capacity or probably never even got to 50%.

These pumps can never run dry so I'm also looking at interlocking the new clutch power switch with a proximity (limit) switch which will be mounted on the seacock (somehow). With the old set up it was a bit more effort to get to the hand clutch and it was always me swinging on the end of it. An electric clutch makes it a lot safer to operate, can be mounted in a more accessible location, but about a 1000 time easier to turn the pump on and run it dry.

The pump has it's own seacock. I installed this as one of my fears is the engine overheating and I would never want to do anything that may lead to this event. (as the Offspring song goes - You've got to keep em separated). The deck wash only runs when the engine is running so I don't want them competing for the same water. It might not be a problem when you have a new impeller in your engine water pump but it may be an issue as the impeller wears. (my thoughts). The engine may be noisy, stink and cost money to run but when it doesn't go, your pretty well in the $hit and up for more money

I also have a 3-way valve so I can use this Jabsco pump to draw directly from the bilge in the event the boat is holed and something scary like that. I think the idea of being able to put fresh water through the pump has merit as when I first turn on my pump to wash the anchor chain it stinks. A squirt of fresh at the end of each use would sole this. I actually have a fresh water outlet in my cockpit I can attach a handheld shower to. This is also capable of taking a garden hose fitting which I some times use when I need to wash something further a field with fresh water.

I mainly use this Jabsco pump to clean the anchor chain as it comes on board. Below are a few pickies of the attachment I use for doing this. I tie the cord loosely to the forestay to hold it in place as the chain comes on board. Once the anchor is stowed I give the foredeck & bow roller a bit of a squirt to clean up. I only have the pump idling over to clean the chain other wise it sprays everywhere and everything including me while I'm assisting the chain into the locker.

I don't wash my solar panels with salt water as they get plenty of this when I'm sailing. I normally just wipe them down with fresh water and wait till I get back to a marina to give them a squirt of fresh.

Using the toilet seacock would be a good idea if it is a suitable size. I'm not sure but you may need to put a non-return valve in the toilet line to stop the obvious.

Making a set up where you can hang the suction over the side until you get the opportunity to put a new skin fitting in sounds like a good solution. Your engine will continue to love you for it.

Cheers

Crusoe
I take it you run the anchor chain through the PVC set up nice idea Im be making one of those bad boys hope you don't have a patten on it
E bay USA

Yeah HG02, the chain runs through it. And no patent so go for your life. Even pops apart if I accidentally run the shank of the anchor through it. Sure beats trying to squirt the chain when the wind is blowing your way.

Cheers

Rob,
We teed of the head sea cock and installed one way valves to both lines to prevent sucking fluid from the head back through the deck wash or sink line etc
i would keep both freshwater and seawater lines separate to prevent bacteria running rife through your fresh water system. we have separate dedicated pumps as well as deck hoses.
We scrub out solar panels with sugar soap and a broom then rinse off.
dave

Does it make any difference if you install the pump close to the sea cock and push water up to the deck or install the pump forward, closer to the anchor locker and draw the water part of the way?

Select to expand quote

DrRog said..
Does it make any difference if you install the pump close to the sea cock and push water up to the deck or install the pump forward, closer to the anchor locker and draw the water part of the way?

Most pumps self prime with 2m lift , so I dont think it really matters

My Summary:

Yes, can use a tee for a dual (fresh and salt water) supply to deck wash. Use fresh for a final rinse on sensitive parts and to clean salt from the pump.
Could tee supply off the toilet seacock and use one way valves to isolate the fresh water system. But I think I prefer a separate sea water systems.
So I will make a temporary / portable, 12 V plug in deck wash to use until I can install another skin fitting.
I must make that anchor chain wash device. Thanks Crusoe.
Seems a really good and efficient deck wash pump would be 20 LPM and 70 psi.
Most pumps have plenty of lift but it's preferable to install the pump near the water source where possible.
Still looking. But I like the 12 V Jabsco Hot Shot 6 wash down kit ($399). Partly because my other pumps are Jabsco. (22 LPM and 70 psi)
Hand wash solar panels. Salt water first then fresh rinse as fresh water availability limited.

Thanks for all the answers.