I bought this harness today from kp. I've got a single low friction pulley that dead simple and works really well.
I want to put a second single rope underneath primary incase it's snaps one day. Only problem is there's no pre drilled holes for it. I want to drill a hole for it. Has anyone actually tried drilling a spreader before with success?

I've drilled a few spreaders in my time
been a while but

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cauncy said..
I've drilled a few spreaders in my time
been a while but

Any split on ya? ??

Why bother. Just keep an eye on the rope and replace when it looks a little worn if it concerns you.

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0llie said..

cauncy said..
I've drilled a few spreaders in my time
been a while but

Any split on ya? ??

I wish

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2old2quit said..
Why bother. Just keep an eye on the rope and replace when it looks a little worn if it concerns you.

I had one 2 years ago snap on my that I thought wasn't worn . ..

The problem with rope sliders is that the way they connect with the chicken loop is fundamentally the worst way to load a rope. The load angles actually cause more than twice the load of the kite to be loaded on each connection point of the rope sliders. So breakage of even an apparently non worn rope is not surprising.

The problem with rope sliders is that the way they connect with the chicken loop is fundamentally the worst way to load a rope. The load angles actually cause more than twice the load of the kite to be loaded on each connection point of the rope sliders. So breakage of even an apparently non worn rope is not surprising.

I run two ropes as well because I had one snap a decent way out to sea and it was a long paddle in. With your spreader bar (not the carbon one) you can just tie the secondary rope to the loop on the bar ends. Just make sure the secondary is a tad longer than the main. The low friction ring is excellent and it has made my primary rope last more than one season with still no visible signs of wear. This is a very simple and effective setup and the low friction ring sure makes everything traverse quite smoothly.

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bramber said..
The problem with rope sliders is that the way they connect with the chicken loop is fundamentally the worst way to load a rope. The load angles actually cause more than twice the load of the kite to be loaded on each connection point of the rope sliders. So breakage of even an apparently non worn rope is not surprising.

A large washer behind then will distribute some load

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dafish said..
I run two ropes as well because I had one snap a decent way out to sea and it was a long paddle in. With your spreader bar (not the carbon one) you can just tie the secondary rope to the loop on the bar ends. Just make sure the secondary is a tad longer than the main. The low friction ring is excellent and it has made my primary rope last more than one season with still no visible signs of wear. This is a very simple and effective setup and the low friction ring sure makes everything traverse quite smoothly.

The latest versions (2018/2019) of the ride engine slider only has one metal loop bar end. Any ideas how to connect a double rope with this setup?

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2old2quit said..
Why bother. Just keep an eye on the rope and replace when it looks a little worn if it concerns you.

I agree. Even if you snap a rope and you have a safety the kite will just depower until you grab your chicken loop; then fly in unhooked. One hand on bar, other on chicken loop. You can even catch some waves like this. It's not a drama with a short front safety. More of a worry is if you lose your whole harness.

I say definitely put a second rope on. It's so quick and easy to do. I just used a thinner piece of dyneema line and tied it through the holes that the original piece of rope goes through, the line is strong enough that I could easily kite back to shore or even finish a downwinder. Make sure the second line is looser so it's not bearing the load. I wouldn't go drilling holes in the spreader bar.

The extra bit of line is safer and it's so simple and easy to install there is no reason not to do it.

Hi, read thru'all the posts - on this thread - many examples..
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Kitesurfing/Review/Wave-Harness
Definite risk assessment 101 - = back-up line - slightly longer than main line so only loaded until main one breaks.
I have mine tied off on spreader bar.
Sure come-up with a better solution, but until U do - tie off a back-up.. - Cool to be safe
Cheers
& hope U enjoy yours as much as me mine!!.
AP

I have the R/E carbon rope slider bar and had the same concerns. Have easily threaded another rope through the same holes.





I came from using a dynabar (superior imo) which has three separate holes for ropes, and they even come with a backup rope. The main one snapped on me once and I kept kiting without noticing at first but only realised when the bar was a bit further out (backup rope is looser so that it doesn't wear).

Either way keep an eye on it, I usually change mine once a year for good measure. I just get a sailmaker to splice some rope for me, makes it double strength.

Hey Peahi, you really should try the Amstel anti friction ring. I used to use a SS ring like yours and would wear through the ropes regularly. Now with the AFR I just don't wear through them any more. I would have had at least 100 sessions on my slider setup and it still looks great. Best part is the smoothness of the slider. Big difference.

This is the latest RE SS spreader bar I just run a single 5mm dyneema rope that I've spliced a 3mm dyneema rope inside. This rope has had just over 100 hrs approx actual water time and its only showing really minimal wear because I use a pulley. Antal rings next best for stopping rope wear, but a single stainless ring is the worst closely followed by direct connecting the chicken loop rope. Anything that forces the rope to slide across a very small diameter ring or stainless chicken loop replacement a few brands offer will wear the rope quite quickly.
Pulleys and antal rings were designed to slide on rope with minimal damage to the rope.

The pulley is this one www.kitepower.com.au/products/30mm-ronstan-pulley-w-swivel-shakle-head?variant=4981422915623
The pulleys is more than strong enough. The rope with 3mm inside 5mm would have a breaking load of at least around 3000kg, so there is no need to worry about rigging compression loads/angles.

Just inspect your rope regularly, no need to worry about a secondary rope when using antal rings or pulleys set up like this, and like Pearl said you can still ride back to shore after relaunching if it did break.
If you use a SS ring or direct connect the chicken loop with a SS talon or duotone rope harness kite maybe its best to run 2 ropes? Running a Plastic chicken loop directly on the rope will wear out the chicken loop and they can be quite expensive to replace.

Posted this in response to a similar question, reused the line off the back of an old harness. If drilling stainless use lots of oil and go real slow..

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dafish said..
Hey Peahi, you really should try the Amstel anti friction ring. I used to use a SS ring like yours and would wear through the ropes regularly. Now with the AFR I just don't wear through them any more. I would have had at least 100 sessions on my slider setup and it still looks great. Best part is the smoothness of the slider. Big difference.

Yeah thinkin about it again, but the ring works fine and rope has lasted over a year, sure its not so smooth but I don't like needing to have a loose rope already have a low friction ring but find it doesn't fit chicken loop so well, doesn't hold in. Am using fireball (without the ball part) and clips into the ring and have the bar super close.

Can anyone measure the length of the rope on their sliders compared to the distance between fixing points please. Thinking of doing a setup using low friction ring on one of my existing spreaders. Maybe measure distance between rope and spreader when your ring/pulley is in the centre and under a little bit of pressure. Previous pictures seem to have quite a lot of variation in rope length.

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Peahi said..

dafish said..
Hey Peahi, you really should try the Amstel anti friction ring. I used to use a SS ring like yours and would wear through the ropes regularly. Now with the AFR I just don't wear through them any more. I would have had at least 100 sessions on my slider setup and it still looks great. Best part is the smoothness of the slider. Big difference.

Yeah thinkin about it again, but the ring works fine and rope has lasted over a year, sure its not so smooth but I don't like needing to have a loose rope already have a low friction ring but find it doesn't fit chicken loop so well, doesn't hold in. Am using fireball (without the ball part) and clips into the ring and have the bar super close.

Here is a pic of setup of AFR on dynabar, the rope has to be quite loose to accomodate it. When the rope is a bit tighter I find the ring moves about quite easily. I was also trying to win the competition of who can get their bar closest. :)

Also message to OP that is one of the harnesses that breaks at the back. Good luck with it, although I still use my broken one.

With your setup Peahi I understand why you would use the SS ring. My standard Ozone chicken loop fits nicely into the groove of the AFR, after I secure the chicken loop around it I give it a little tug and it locks right in. I have short arms so this setup gets the bar as close as possible to me. Either way, you have a nice setup and backup in case something breaks.

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dafish said..
With your setup Peahi I understand why you would use the SS ring. My standard Ozone chicken loop fits nicely into the groove of the AFR, after I secure the chicken loop around it I give it a little tug and it locks right in. I have short arms so this setup gets the bar as close as possible to me. Either way, you have a nice setup and backup in case something breaks.

cheers dafish, the cab C/L was always too thick but I'll check the 2018/19 bar as it seems smaller.

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Peahi said..

Peahi said..

dafish said..
Hey Peahi, you really should try the Amstel anti friction ring. I used to use a SS ring like yours and would wear through the ropes regularly. Now with the AFR I just don't wear through them any more. I would have had at least 100 sessions on my slider setup and it still looks great. Best part is the smoothness of the slider. Big difference.

Yeah thinkin about it again, but the ring works fine and rope has lasted over a year, sure its not so smooth but I don't like needing to have a loose rope already have a low friction ring but find it doesn't fit chicken loop so well, doesn't hold in. Am using fireball (without the ball part) and clips into the ring and have the bar super close.

Here is a pic of setup of AFR on dynabar, the rope has to be quite loose to accomodate it. When the rope is a bit tighter I find the ring moves about quite easily. I was also trying to win the competition of who can get their bar closest. :)

Also message to OP that is one of the harnesses that breaks at the back. Good luck with it, although I still use my broken one.

Had a couple of sessions with afr,, yes dafish can say the same. Chicken loop fits snug around ring and bar throw is perfect,. Only done downwinders on my sb so can't say how it'd go boosting but can't see a problem

Peahi how is this harness break at the back??? kp didn't mention that when I bought it??

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0llie said..

Peahi said..

Peahi said..

dafish said..
Hey Peahi, you really should try the Amstel anti friction ring. I used to use a SS ring like yours and would wear through the ropes regularly. Now with the AFR I just don't wear through them any more. I would have had at least 100 sessions on my slider setup and it still looks great. Best part is the smoothness of the slider. Big difference.

Yeah thinkin about it again, but the ring works fine and rope has lasted over a year, sure its not so smooth but I don't like needing to have a loose rope already have a low friction ring but find it doesn't fit chicken loop so well, doesn't hold in. Am using fireball (without the ball part) and clips into the ring and have the bar super close.

Here is a pic of setup of AFR on dynabar, the rope has to be quite loose to accomodate it. When the rope is a bit tighter I find the ring moves about quite easily. I was also trying to win the competition of who can get their bar closest. :)

Also message to OP that is one of the harnesses that breaks at the back. Good luck with it, although I still use my broken one.

Had a couple of sessions with afr,, yes dafish can say the same. Chicken loop fits snug around ring and bar throw is perfect,. Only done downwinders on my sb so can't say how it'd go boosting but can't see a problem

Peahi how is this harness break at the back??? kp didn't mention that when I bought it??

Boosting is not an issue...

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0llie said..

Peahi how is this harness break at the back??? kp didn't mention that when I bought it??

What happened to mine... but I still use it. R/E replaced it under warranty, so don't be too concerned or check with your shop. Looks like you have an older model with green back, I know someone who had one like that, theirs cracked through the middle.

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Peahi said..

0llie said..

Peahi how is this harness break at the back??? kp didn't mention that when I bought it??

What happened to mine... but I still use it. R/E replaced it under warranty, so don't be too concerned or check with your shop. Looks like you have an older model with green back, I know someone who had one like that, theirs cracked through the middle.

Is it possible that rope sliders may put additional stress on a hardshell harness, possibly due to carbon spreader being very stiff.?? Would SS spreader spread load better? R/E don't sell the carbon rope spreader anymore...

I also have had a mainline break on me on a bar less than 1 year old - mainline 2-3mm dyneema I think, so pretty hard to break - but showed lots of wear spots inside the pvc tubing.