I thought it was excellent and I'd put it up there with some of the great surfing movies. I thought the script, acting and filming was very good.. I like the way they kept you guessing about what was going to happen.
I liked the way they sent the message that there's no shame in saying 'no.. I'm too scared and don't feel right" about tackling waves or conditions that are too big or scary for them.
I think they captured the wave scenes perfectly and I'm sure a lot of people will be able to relate it with their early years of surfing foam surfboards and whole stoke of surfing waves when you were a kid.
Two thumbs up from me.. and worth seeing on the big screen.